Synopsis: Rabbets, tenons, flush-trimming, miters, and sample work all get considerably simpler if you construct an adjustable L-fence like this one by Bob Van Dyke. It consists of a set backer board that clamps to the rip fence, with a slotted L-fence that may be positioned above the blade and adjusted for an ideal minimize. The placement eliminates the chance of kickback and small elements being trapped between the blade and fence. With the addition of this fence, your tablesaw simply acquired much more versatile.
The L-fence in its easiest type is a board that clamps horizontally onto your tablesaw’s rip fence. The bearing floor of the L-fence might be positioned proper over the blade, and that opens up a variety of highly effective prospects. I wrote about it in “The Unbelievable L-Fence” (FWW #237). I used my unique fence for a very long time, however after years of placing up with the fussiness of positioning it on the right top and parallel to the noticed desk, I made some enhancements and constructed what a FWW editor dubbed my “excessive tech L-fence.” This vastly improved model has a stationary base with a height-adjustable L-fence hooked up to it. The brand new model is superior to my first as a result of it’s far simpler to handle changes. The L-fence, which travels between information blocks on the backer board, stays completely parallel to the desk as you progress it up and down, and it tightens in place firmly with threaded knobs.
You should use an L-fence as a information to flush-cut to a precise line or sample, minimize off elements that might in any other case get caught between the fence and the spinning blade, minimize very correct burn-free miters, and say goodbye to these sacrificial items of plywood used to chop rabbets.
One primary precept of working with an L-fence is that, in contrast to with a daily tablesaw minimize, you intend issues so your waste piece is between the blade and the rip fence. Sounds harmful? It’s not, as a result of the L-fence is raised off the noticed desk—often increased than the blade—and its width gives a number of inches of house so the waste can not get caught between the blade and the rip fence.
Constructing my new L-fence is simple. I exploit Baltic-birch plywood for many of the elements as a result of it’s structurally secure, holds fasteners properly, and is available. Stable wooden or cabinet-grade plywood will also be used. The plastic knobs and T-nuts can be found from any woodworking-supply retailer or from McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com). I make the lateral a part of the L from hardwood. The few hours it takes to make this jig might be paid again tenfold within the variety of occasions you’ll use it going ahead.
From High quality Woodworking #290
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